Since moving to France 17 years ago, I’ve made it a goal to visit at least one château every year. There’s something magical about French châteaux, they have a way of transporting you to another time as soon as you step onto the grounds. I’ve still got a long way to go before I get round them all – there are 45,000 scattered across the whole country, but if you’re looking to fit a few into your next trip, the Loire Valley is a great place to start. And there’s more to the region than fairytale castles, this is prime wine country, and with a huge network of cycle paths linking vineyards and villages, what better place to explore?
Where is the Loire Valley in France?
If you look for the Loire Valley on a map, it’s situated along the river Loire in central-western France. It takes in four departments from Sully-sur-Loire in the east to Chalonnes-sur-Loire in the west, and has been named a UNESCO World Heritage site for its outstanding architectural heritage and cultural landscape. Dotted throughout its vineyards and riverbanks, you’ll also find some of the country’s most historic towns, including Orléans, Angers, and Saumur, along with eight villages classified among the Plus Beaux Villages de France.
The Châteaux of the Loire Valley
With over 300 châteaux to choose from, narrowing it down isn’t easy. But as a starting point, here is my choice of the best châteaux to see in the Loire Valley. All entry fees mentioned are for adults.
Château de Chambord
My absolute favourite, so much so, I’ve been to see it three times. This enormous castle is the most visited château in the Loire Valley, with over one million visitors each year. It was originally built as a hunting lodge for King François I, with construction starting in 1519. This amazing feat of Renaissance architecture wasn’t completed until the 17th century.
One of the most famous features is the double helix staircase, which allows two people to ascend and descend at the same time without ever crossing paths. A visit to the rooftops will give you a 360° view over the decorative chimneys, domes, and turrets. To give you an idea of the scale of Chambord, there are over 400 rooms and nearly 300 fireplaces, all set within an area of 13,425 acres of land. Not bad for a weekend getaway.
Chambord is located 16km northeast of Blois and 46km southwest of Orléans. Tickets cost €19 for entry to the chateau and gardens. If you visit in summer, you’ll also find outdoor shows with horses and birds of prey.
Château d’Amboise
Set above the town of Amboise, this château overlooks the River Loire and has close ties to several French kings. It became a royal residence in the 15th century under Charles VIII and was expanded by Louis XII and François I. The chapel on-site holds the tomb of Leonardo da Vinci, who lived in the nearby Château du Clos Lucé in the final years of his life. A visit here makes a lovely day trip, where you can explore the historic old town at the same time.
The château is 24 km east of Tours and 35 km west of Blois. Tickets cost from €16.90, or you can buy a combined ticket including Château du Clos Lucé and Château de Chenonceau from €52. Entry includes use of a Histopad, which shows virtual reconstructions of the château’s rooms and former residents. The pretty gardens are also worth visiting.
Château de Chenonceau
This was the first château I ever visited, and it’s often described as the most beautiful château in France. Built in the early 16th century on the foundations of an old mill, the château sits on the River Cher with a long arched gallery that was added later by Catherine de Medici. Before her, it belonged to Diane de Poitiers, who added the bridge and created one of the formal gardens.
Chenonceau has long been associated with the women who lived here, earning the name – Le Château des Dames. During World War I, it was used as a hospital, and in World War II, the river running beneath it marked the boundary between occupied and free France. Inside, the rooms are fully furnished, and the estate includes impeccably maintained gardens, a maze, and a farm.
Chenonceau is 32 km east of Tours and not far from Château Amboise. Tickets to visit the château and gardens start at €18. And for a different view, take the nocturnal visit when the gardens light up.
Château d’Azay-le-Rideau
I visited this one while cycling along the Loire à Vélo and took a short detour to see it. Built on an island in the River Indre, the current château was constructed between 1518 and 1527 for Gilles Berthelot, the Treasurer of France. He didn’t get to enjoy it for long, he fled the country when François I cracked down on financial corruption, and the château was seized.
It’s a much smaller château but still with plenty to see, with its sculpted stonework, decorative ceilings, and well-preserved Renaissance interiors. The landscaped gardens are peaceful, and there are a few places to eat in the grounds. Château Azay-le-Rideau is 30 km southwest of Tours and 63 km east of Saumur. Tickets cost €16, or €13 on Wednesdays during the summer months.
Château de Villandry
Despite being a stunning château in its own right, the main attraction at Villandry is undoubtedly the gardens, which are open all year round. The current château was completed in 1536 by Jean Le Breton, Minister of Finance under François I, and built on the site of a medieval fortress where King Philip Augustus once met Richard the Lionheart.
The gardens are divided into themed sections, including an ornamental kitchen garden, herb garden, and the more formal “Garden of Love,” where box hedges are trimmed into symbolic shapes. Seasonal planting means there’s something different to see depending on the time of year. Villandry is located 16 km west of Tours, near the Château d’Azay-le-Rideau. Tickets cost €14 to walk around the château and gardens.
Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire
I visited Chaumont during the International Garden Festival, which runs each year from April to November. The château itself was first built in the 10th century, then rebuilt in the 15th century in a mix of Gothic and Renaissance styles after being destroyed by royal order. It was owned by Catherine de Medici, who later forced Diane de Poitiers to exchange it for Chenonceau after the death of King Henri II.
As well as some impressive rooms within the chateau, the contemporary art exhibitions and luxurious stables are also worth visiting. Situated next to the river Loire, Chaumont is 18km southwest of Blois and 44km east of Tours. Tickets cost from €16 and include access to the château, park, and exhibitions.
Wines of the Loire Valley
I must admit I’m partial to a glass of crisp, sparkling Vouvray. This white wine comes from the town of the same name and is made from Chenin Blanc, one of the region’s most versatile grapes. The Loire Valley has over 85 appellations and is known for its diversity. Sauvignon Blanc defines the whites of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, while Cabernet Franc shines in the reds of Chinon and Saumur. You’ll also find excellent fresh, fruity rosés, especially Rosé d’Anjou and Cabernet d’Anjou. For wine lovers, there’s something for every palate across a 1,000 km stretch of vineyards. You can book tastings and tours of some of the best vineyards in the Loire Valley, from the famous Ackerman sparkling wines in Saumur to Château de Minière in the heart of Borgueil terroir.
How to get to the Loire Valley
You can reach the Loire Valley from Paris several ways. Tours in the heart of the region is close to many of the major châteaux. High-speed TGV trains from Paris Montparnasse take between 1 – 2 hours. The nearest airport is the small Tours Val de Loire, but there are no direct flights from Paris. You’d need to change in Nantes, Poitiers, or elsewhere. Since the châteaux and vineyards are spread across a wide area, I’d recommend hiring a car. It gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace and helps avoid peak visiting hours.
How much time do you need in the Loire Valley?
I could quite happily spend weeks roaming around the Loire Valley. If you’re lucky enough to have the luxury of time, it’s the ideal place for a road trip. If you’ve got a week, base yourself in Tours or Amboise and plan to visit one major château per day. That gives you time to enjoy the grounds, have lunch nearby, and stop off at a winery or local market without rushing. Walking around châteaux can be extremely tiring, and if you plan too much, you’ll find yourself rushing around, not being able to enjoy the sights as much as you’d like.
With just two or three days, I’d recommend focusing on the eastern end near Blois, which, apart from being a beautiful town, is also close to Chambord and Cheverny. You can cover a lot from one base without spending too much time driving. If you’re planning a day trip from Paris, it’s possible to visit Chambord or Chenonceau by train or organised tour.
The best places to stay in the Loire Valley
Tours is a great base for exploring the region. It’s a lively student town with great shopping and lots of restaurants. It also has regular train connections and is well-placed for day trips to many of the major châteaux.
Blois is ideal if you’re focusing on the eastern Loire. It’s a beautiful town located on the river, and has its own impressive château in the heart of town.
Saumur sits further west and is known for its hilltop château, historic wine cellars carved into the cliffs, and the world-famous Cadre Noir – a prestigious equestrian centre recognised by UNESCO.
Chinon is smaller with medieval streets, half-timbered houses, and some of the best red wines in the region. It’s a lovely spot if you’re looking for a quieter base.
Angers, though slightly further west, is also worth considering. It has a large medieval fortress, a vibrant cultural scene, and is well connected by train if you’re arriving from Nantes or Paris.
When is the best time to visit the Loire Valley?
Spring: A lovely time to visit. The weather’s mild, the gardens are thriving, and it’s way before the holiday crowds arrive. Perfect for walking, cycling, and château-hopping.
Summer: Hot and busy. Expect peak crowds and temperatures that can sometimes top 35°C. You should book accommodation and château tickets in advance.
Autumn: The crowds have quietened down again, it’s harvest season in the vineyards, and the conditions are ideal for wine tasting and other outdoor activities.
Winter: Cold, rainy, and with shorter days. Some châteaux partially close for renovations. So, unless you’re after Christmas markets or solitude, best to wait until spring.
In my opinion, the best time to visit the Loire Valley is in May to June when there are fewer crowds, it’s not too hot, and the gardens are in full bloom.
Other things to do in the Loire Valley
It’s not all chateaux and chenin blanc. Here’s what else you can do when you’ve had your fill of turrets and tastings:
Cycling – The Loire à Vélo is a 900km cycle route running from Saint-Brevin-les-Pins to Nevers, not to mention the additional loops along the way. It’s flat, scenic, well signposted, and arguably the best way to see the region.
Hot air balloon rides – One way of avoiding the crowds, drift above the river and enjoy a memorable birds-eye view of the Garden of France.
River cruises – take your pick from short or multi-day boat trips along the river Loire, the perfect way to slow down and relax.
Les Plus Beaux Villages de France – Take a detour and discover the most beautiful villages in the Loire Valley, including Montrésor, Lavardin, Sancerre, and Candes-Saint-Martin.
The best way to find experiences like balloon rides or river cruises is to search based on where you’re staying. There’s so much choice, so narrowing it down will help you find somewhere local.Looking to add more unforgettable stops to your France itinerary? Try the fortified city of Carcassonne or the “floating” island of Mont-Saint-Michel.
