In a way, Ho Chi Minh is a city of doubles. Two names, two histories, two peoples. Saigon was separated from the north for 21 years. In other ways Ho Chi Minh is a bustling meeting point for Vietnamese food, culture and people.
For my generation, the 1960s and 70s are an age ago, but for many, Vietnam is still synonymous with war. For me, Ho Chi Minh was never Saigon and comes across as an incredible, hectic and bustling city like Bangkok–of course, with its very own unique identity.
It is however, impossible to ignore so much history–especially when its scars run deep enough to be seen today. That’s where the war museum comes in. Giving Vietnam its own voice in the cacophony of history that has been written about it by others.
Ho Chi Minh City War Museum in South Vietnam
The War Remnants Museum in Saigon, Vietnam or Ho Chi Minh City War Museum, as others will know it, is not for the faint-hearted. The Vietnamese do not shy away from the atrocities committed during the Vietnam War–nor should they. It does, however, mean that parents should carefully consider bringing their children here (although it would be very educational). Pictures of Agent Orange victims and preserved stillbirths are hard to unsee.
The museum paints a clear message: America is terrible. It does not pretend to be objective, but why should it? I don’t think it is possible for many like myself to really understand the ‘American War’ as it is called in Vietnam, without seeing firsthand some of the pain it inflicted.
The Exhibits at Ho Chi Minh City War Museum
Preface aside, there is plenty to see. A visit starts in the courtyard, where some captured American tanks, planes, and artillery guns and helicopters are on display. The museum building is a bit run down but large, with about four stories of exhibits.
The first exhibit I came to was the war crimes section. This details all the war crimes American forces have been accused of, with photos of Agent Orange victims, torture and more. For such a dark topic, the exhibit is well-structured and gives a picture of how the Vietnamese in conflict areas suffered.
The next exhibits are on prisoners of war, with terrifying reconstructions of the ‘tiger cage’ and other devices in which prisoners were kept. There is also a section on the anti-war movement in the US and the post-war reconstruction period.
It is a difficult museum to describe and something you need to see personally to fully absorb.
Vietnam War Museum Cost, Opening Times and More
The Ho Chi Minh City war museum is open every day from 7:30 am to 6 pm. I visited earlier in the morning to avoid the crowds–around 9 am–and the museum was busy but not packed. It costs VND 40,000. At around $2.50 AUD, this is very cheap. It is pretty central and easy to get to from most parts of town by taxi or scooter.
There are plenty of tours to join in Ho Chi Minh if you like the group travel experience, or you can do a tour of the museum itself. For more information, check the website here.
Attractions near Ho Chi Minh City War Museum
Central Saigon has plenty more to offer for history buffs. Across the park from the War Remnants Museum is the Notre Dame Cathedral. A classic French cathedral from the 1800s modelled on its Parisian namesake.
The grand reunification palace is just across the road and is the site where North Vietnamese tanks crashed through the gates, formally ending the war. According to the website, it is open to visitors daily.
For a more hands-on bit of historical action, many tourists venture out to the Cu Chi tunnels. These are some of the tunnels used by the Viet Kong or North Vietnamese forces during the war to hide from American troops and bombs. The tunnels you can actually enter have been enlarged because, well, the original tunnels were incredibly narrow–I’m a skinny guy, but I have no idea how people managed to navigate, let alone wage war from the tunnel systems.
It takes a couple of hours to get to central Ho Chi Min by bus to the tunnels. There are plenty of tours, and your hotel/hostel will likely be able to help you arrange one.
Reflections on Ho Chi Minh
Vietnam is, without a doubt, one of my favourite places. As a backpacker, this incredibly cheap country means you can see and do everything you want without worrying too much about the budget. As a tourist, there is no end to things to see and do.
In Ho Chi Minh City, you can start your day sipping egg coffee on bustling street corners, trying an insane variety of mouthwatering dishes, before exploring vibrant markets, historic temples, captivating museums, grand palaces, and so much more.
