The first time I set foot on Samui, time slowed down a little, and I could breathe easier. The same thing happens every time I go back; I’m not sure if there is some ethereal force at play or if it is just the combination of the sticky Thai sun, beautiful beaches or sleeping in a bungalow metres away from the calming waves. Regardless, Samui has a very special charm, one that draws around 2.2 million visitors a year.
1. Getting There
In October 2022, I was in Samui for some rest and relaxation after a hard year of work before heading to the Himalayas. At this point, I was comfortable renting a scooter and getting straight onto the roads–or road, should I say, the main route around is a 51km road that encircles the island. Anyhow, I spotted an incredible-looking beach bar coming into the south end of Lamai and sat down for a cocktail. After a Mai tai or two, I saw a platform up in the hills behind Lamai and asked the bartender what it was–the Lamai viewpoint & Valentine Stone, apparently.
If you are driving or riding, keep an eye out for the big Makro supermarket (it is hard to miss–probably the biggest on the island) You then turn off the main road either just before or after Makro and loop around the back until you see signs to the Koh Samui Lamai viewpoint. There is plenty of parking for scooters or a couple of jeeps. Luckily, and possibly due to its slightly secluded entrance, I have never seen the place fill up.
2. Getting up the hill
Once you have parked, there is a small reception building with ticket sales. Entry just to walk up to the Lamai Viewpoint restaurant was THB 100 as of late early 2024. You can also opt for the ‘cable car,’ although, as I will explain later, it is not for the faint-hearted. Up the top, there is also a zipline, which tickets can be purchased on-site and will most likely be cheaper than any price a tour guide or website quotes you.
As I mentioned, the Lamai viewpoint cable car is fun but slightly terrifying. It’s a far cry from a Swiss gondola–more of a wooden platform pulled up the hill by a rope and motor. That being said, I have visited the viewpoint a number of times and have never seen it fail to function, and it certainly excites the families that take it. However, if that’s not your cup of tea, the trail up the hill is a calm 10-minute walk, passing the Valentine stone–a nice stone, but no one has managed to explain to me why or what it is–aside from a stone.
3. Lamai viewpoint restaurant
The final sweaty steps to the viewpoint reveal three floors of wooden structure with a restaurant and zipline launch pad on the first, with more seating and a bar on the upper levels. The Lamai viewpoint restaurant and menu itself are not bad, with most local and Thai dishes at ‘higher than local’ prices than can be expected from a tourist-oriented Samui restaurant. That being said, the food is great; having a seafood curry and beer with that view is worth a few hundred Baht, especially at sunset.
Note. If you opt for a sunset expedition, pack plenty of bug spray and feel free to bring mosquito coils–there are usually a few smoking away.
4. Adventurous Activities
Regretfully, I have not participated in the zipline, but from the enthusiastic screams, one can surmise that the Lamai viewpoint zipline is a hit. I believe you start from near the top level of the restaurant structure before zipping over the valley to another hilltop before zipping back to a platform just under the restaurant. All in all, it looks like a great time, and your friends can get plenty of Instagram-able photos of you swinging over the trees from the comfort of their restaurant chairs.
5. Lamai Nearby
Known for its sandy beaches, grandmother and grandfather rock, and beach bars (the latter I highly recommend exploring), Lamai is a great place to stay or just spend the evening. As you can see from the Lamai viewpoint photos, there is no shortage of beaches nearby. My favourite spots are the smaller beach bars between Hua Thanon (where the main road cuts inland) and the grandparent rocks. You can happily relax at perhaps Thailand’s best-situated Cafe Amazon, for hours or explore the Guan Yu Shrine opposite.
In Lamai itself, there is plenty to do. On Sunday nights, the central Had Lamai Road turns into a walking market bustling with food, crafts and even fried insects. One night, my partner and I decided to catch the sunset and have a relaxing dinner at the Lamai beach viewpoint before coming down into town and snacking on some Thai treats. To this day, that was a hard night to beat.
