Istanbul is a city juxtaposed between two continents. Home to two of history’s largest empires. An ancient, bustling city is ever-expanding into a modern metropolis. The old city alone has enough historical sites to keep you busy for weeks. First churches and now mosques have been the centrepieces in this city for over a thousand years and, as such, are well worth a visit.
A Brief History of Modern Istanbul
Byzantium was an ancient Greek city that existed for centuries before the spread of Roman influence and power. In 330 AD, the Roman emperor Constantine the Great renamed the city Constantinople, making it the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire. Constantine was a Christian, and Constantinople transitioned to become a Christian Roman city, building many churches. For centuries, Constantinople was one of the richest cities in Europe. It sat at the end of the Silk Road and was a major maritime trading hub.
In 1453, the Ottoman Empire, led by Sultan Mehmed II, conquered Constantinople, marking the end of the Byzantine Empire. The city was renamed Istanbul and transformed into an Islamic cultural and political hub. The Ottomans built grand mosques, palaces, and public buildings, leaving a lasting architectural legacy, but they destroyed many classical Byzantine buildings to make room for new growth.
Hagia Sofia
The Hagia Sophia started its life as a Byzantine church in 537. For a while, it was the largest church in the world, standing at the heart of the Second Roman Empire. In the 15th and 16th centuries, the new Ottoman rulers added minarets and converted the Orthodox church into a mosque.
Today, visiting Hagia Sophia, which is a working mosque, is pretty easy. From the big square outside, be sure to go to the side closest to the water, following the signs for “other nationalities”(unless you are Turkish, of course–then there is a different queue). Many people wonder if you can go inside Hagia Sophia–the answer is yes, but with some caveats. The cost to get in is 25 Euros, which gives you access to the upper galleries only. This means you cannot actually walk on the floor of the mosque–I believe this is restricted to Turkish citizens and those there to pray. Rules and prices change, so be sure to check the website here in advance.
The Hagia Sophia dress code is the same as that of other Istanbul mosques–female visitors must cover their shoulders and legs, and men should dress smartly and cannot wear shorts. Hagia Sophia prayer times can be found here.
Even though the visit is quite restricted, the Hagia Sofia is incredible. The sheer scale of such an old structure and the ornate Muslim and Christian decorations are beautiful. The most famous mosque in Istanbul does not disappoint.
The Blue Mosque
The blue mosque, or Ahmet Camii, was commissioned in 1601 by Sultan Ahmet I, whose name it bears. The then 13-year-old sultan decided to build a mosque to rival the Hagia Sophia. With six minarets, the mosque’s only rival would be the Kaaba in Mecca.
It is rare to find an attraction in Istanbul and a UNESCO World Heritage site that is entirely free (but be sure to check before visiting, as rules change). What’s more, anyone of any faith can visit at (almost any time. Even the pope has stood inside.
I say almost because the mosque is restricted to practising Muslims five times a day for the Adhan, so be sure to plan accordingly. We visited after the morning prayers but before noon. It was busy but not packed, bearing in mind Istanbul was quieter in December when we visited.
From the outside, the architecture is incredible, but the second you walk in, the sheer scale of the place is striking. Take a glance up, and you will see giant domed roofs with ornate Arabic carvings on bright marble.
*Note for the ladies: By Muslim standards, Istanbul is very relaxed; however, you will need a headscarf to enter the mosque. If you don’t have one, do not stress. Random people at the entrance may try to sell you one. You can ignore these people as they want to take you to their shop in the nearby bazaar. Instead, you can borrow one from the small box at the entrance and return it on the way out. As I recall, there is no charge.
Exploring Sulthanahmet
This ancient part of Istanbul is home to both the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, as well as countless other Ottoman and Roman wonders.
The distance between the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia is pretty small, meaning you can visit both in the afternoon and still have time to explore, or just eat your way through town.
The Basilica Cisterna is one of the last remaining examples of Roman architecture. It was a water storage tank for the old city, built to ensure clean water for residents even during a siege. It is entirely underground with a small entrance across the road from the Hagia Sophia square. If you want to see Eastern Roman architecture, this eerie underground attraction is a good choice.
Aside from the Basilica and city walls, the Roman columns mark where the Hippodrome once stood–as it is right in front of the Blue Mosque, you can just stroll out and take a look at the large columns, imagining chariots racing past.
Visiting the Hammam
It is hard to visit Istanbul and not spend a morning in the Hamam. These classic Ottoman bathhouses are a mix of steam, sauna, and bath. For budget-related reasons, my partner and I chose the Kadirga Hamami. This is a more local Hamam that may not be as opulent as the Hürrem Sultan Hamamı, but is still almost 300 years old and very grand.
Most hammams are mixed-gender; the only exception I could find is Cagaloglu Hamami, which you must book in advance. As such, I bid farewell to my partner at the door to the women’s section, but I have not seen her since. Just kidding.
Upon entering, I was met by the friendly Turkish proprietor, who spoke no English whatsoever and promptly directed me to a changing room. Everyone gets their own room with a bench and a stand to put clothes on. The Hammam itself is made up of a sauna room with a very high dome roof, a toilet, and a few cavernous, steamy washing rooms. You can fill your own basin with hot water and soap before scrubbing yourself clean. Don’t get too much soap in your eyes; it stings.
For entry only, which includes a locker room, towels, soap, and slippers, it costs 800 TL, currently about 36 AUD. My Partner paid 200 TL more for a massage.
*Note that the Turkish Lira (TL) has experienced heavy inflation for years, so prices change regularly. The price for our hotel was fixed in Euros upon booking, as the value of the TL could drop between booking and arrival.
Istanbul’s Best Eats (In my Inexpert Opinion)
Everyone knows you have to eat plenty of kebabs in Istanbul, but Kofte–a dish made up of tasty meatballs with a ton of herbs–often slips under the radar. There is a great Kofte restaurant called Sultanahmet Köftecisi. It is a renowned local establishment with three floors of tables and speedy service.
Istanbul is full of sweet foods; from street stalls to restaurants and markets, people sell sweet treats like baklava, Turkish delight, halva, and more. I could not pick one good place to buy these treats, but if you walk around Sultanahmet, there are plenty of places to try them.
Our favourite meal was across the water in Kabataş, where you can find many restaurants and street vendors selling midye dolma. These are delicious mussels stuffed with rice and a bunch of herbs. The same restaurants sell plenty of seafood. Try the fried anchovy and octopus salad with a cold beer.
Final Thoughts on Istanbul
This city was one of the best places I have ever visited. For someone used to Western Europe and South Asia, visiting the place where Eastern Europe and not-so-south Asia meet was fascinatingly new. There is no shortage of things to see and do in the old city alone, not to mention the rest of the city all the way up both sides of the Bosphorus.
If you visit, make sure to plan ahead, as it would be a shame to miss out on places like the Hagia Sophia because the queue is too large or prayer time is too soon. Otherwise, just make sure you have enough time to really enjoy this fantastic city.
