Before going to Nepal, I had imagined lush valleys with weed plants growing abundantly and happy locals enjoying the harvest; however, after trekking in the Himalayas for a month, I had yet to discover these mystical valleys.

On a sunny November day in 2022, I found myself in Kathmandu with a few days to spare before heading home after a long trek. So why not go on a bit of a mission to find the marijuana fields? After a quick Google, I found a rough map of the Marijuana loop: a 30-ish kilometre cycle route out of Thamel to the South of town posted here.

Renting a Bike in Thamel

There are a few little shops scattered around Thamel. I found a couple next to Chhetrapati Chowk toward the south of Thamel. After negotiating a price, I signed some paperwork entirely in Hindi. They seemed very trusting and didn’t ask for a deposit or anything–I don’t know if that’s the case everywhere. They had a good selection of mountain bikes to choose from, and I got one with decent suspension to survive the bumpy roads and many potholes. 

Cycling in the centre of Kathmandu is not for the faint-hearted, but if you start early in the morning, the traffic is pretty quiet, and by the time everyone else wakes up, you are further out in the broader Kathmandu valley area, where traffic is a bit more reasonable. Kathmandu is a heavily polluted city, and when it hasn’t rained for a while, the dust in the air gets pretty bad, so I would recommend wearing a face mask or scarf, especially when cycling. 

Places to see in Kathmandu Valley

There is no shortage of things to see around Kathmandu, but on this occasion, I was heading south to explore the mysterious marijuana loop. To follow this route, I headed West from Thamel to the Bishnumati river that runs down to the ring road–this part is not particularly enjoyable and gets pretty busy later in the day, so the earlier you set off, the better. 

From the ring road, you head south towards the University where things get a lot greener but steeper a well. The road then climbs up to a few smaller towns on the hillsides of the Kathmandu valley. 

After the university and the small towns, you continue to follow the mighty Bagmati River, the main waterway, which receives water from the other rivers in the Kathmandu valley, until the rough halfway point, roughly 15 km in. This is where I really expected to encounter wild marijuana plants, but I continued to be disappointed. 

From this point, you have to go off the road and follow a few small trails down towards the river, where there are a few bridges across. I’m not sure if the route I chose followed the right path, but I made it across the river to find a few small farms and stop for a drink. Luckily, after weeks in the mountains, the relatively low altitude of Kathmandu valley made cycling feel too easy. 

Latipur and Way Back 

After a short break on the banks of the river, I began to cycle up the hill to Bhaisepati, before heading back through the outskirts of Latipur. Latipur or Patan used the be the second-biggest city in the Kathmandu valley, divided by the Bagmati River, before urban sprawl merged the two cities into an indistinguishable expanse of houses. 

There is plenty to see and do in Latipur–you could take a side trip to Patan Durbar Square or stop by the city zoo. On this occasion, I cycled through the winding suburbs and found some wealthy neighbourhoods with international schools and high-gated houses. 

After the quiet neighbourhoods of Latipur, it was a shock to rejoin the main roads back into town, so I cycled as fast as possible past Durbar Square and back up to Thamel. 

Kathmandu Valley treks

If you are not into cycling, there are plenty of short treks around the valley–who knows, you might just find the hidden marijuana valleys on one of them. Plenty of tour guides offer trips to Nagarkot, a small, picturesque town up in the hills where you can hike and snap some good pictures of the valley below. 

Closer to town, there are a few cool resorts and hotels you can trek to up above the route I cycled, on the West edge of the valley–you could easily get a taxi to the start. 

Rating My Ride 

I would give it a solid 8/10 for scenery, nature, and just getting to see something that few tourists get a chance to. Renting a bike is a great way to cover ground and get out of the bus centre. You will see small towns, farms, rivers, and probably find some of the best picnic spots in Kathmandu Valley. 

Aside from the obvious dangers that Nepal’s roads pose, I felt extremely safe. Locals gave me perplexed looks as I cycled alone through farmland, trying to find a way across the river, but a few young builders gave me directions and Nepalis in general are super friendly.

So, if you find yourself in Thamel with a day to spare, grab a bike, find a route and try and discover the secret marijuana fields. Who knows what you’ll find, but I can tell you now it will be worth it.